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Written by Brian Olsen
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Saturday, 09 April 2005 00:00 |
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Location: Fort Kent, ME
One of the most common dishes that one will come across in traveling through the central Alps is Kaiserschmarrn (“Emperor’s rubbish”). Basically, it is a torn pancake with raisins, powdered sugar, and a compote of some kind. Often it is served as a delicious dessert, but because of its heartiness, sometimes served as a dish unto itself.
At the Hotel Schneeberg in Ridnaun, the amenities that make it known as the Vacation Paradise are more than simply the large rooms, beautiful mountains, and luxurious spa area. No, it is in the dining room that the real opulence of the four-star hotel truly emerges. It is here that I last experienced Kaiserschmarrn – for lunch.
Perhaps the intriguing part of the dish is its name. Every restaurant and guesthouse owner in the Alps has an answer for that question! Some recount the legend that says it was created in Emperor Franz Josef I’s kitchen by a cook who made a bad pancake, but covered up the mistake by adding raisins, cherries, and a whole lot of powdered sugar.
Others believe in the story that it was created when the Emperor, on one of his hunting trips, stopped in at a farmhouse unannounced to spend the night. Having few ingredients and little time, the farmer's wife added milk and eggs to the family recipe for Holzfallerschmarrn, a simple meal of flour and animal fat.
Whatever its origins are, Kaiserschmarrn is an experience. More importantly, it is difficult to avoid since nearly every inn in the Alps has a recipe for it. No ski trip is complete for Europeans without the group gathering around a platter of Kaiserschmarrn!
Kaiserschmarrn
Serves 4
2 c milk
Pinch of salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp granulated sugar
6 eggs, separated
2 c flour
½ c raisins, soaked in rum for 30 min
1 tbsp butter
Powdered sugar
Cinnamon
(Optional) apple sauce or lingonberry compote
Beat the milk, salt, vanilla, sugar, and egg yokes into a smooth batter. Stir in flour.
Separately, whip the egg whites in a bowl until peaks form.
Gently fold in the egg whites.
Melt butter in a large, oven-safe pan and add raisins, stirring them around a bit.
Add half of the batter to form a large pancake. Fry on one side for about eight minutes until the batter thickens on the surface. Now, either flip it over and fry the top side until golden brown, or stick it underneath the broiler at high heat. Test with a toothpick to make sure the batter is cooked through.
Tear the pancake into pieces.
Sprinkle on powdered sugar and cinnamon and let sit, or put underneath the broiler for about 45 seconds to form a golden crust. Set a dollop of apple sauce or other compote on the side.
Serve as soon as the powdered sugar has glazed slightly on the pancake pieces.
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