[Unpublished] Glide, peddle, and bask in the spring sun of Yellowstone Country.
West Yellowstone is best enjoyed during the spring. Just don’t tell anyone, as apparently only the locals know the secret. Springtime in the northern Rocky Mountains – meaning feet of snow still on the ground – can still be hanging on through the middle of May when most outdoor types have long since switched their boards out for bikes, boats, and hiking boots. Oh, you can do all those things in West Yellowstone in the spring, too. Just save them for the afternoon after a morning of crust cruising, hard wax striding, and teleskiing.
At 6,666 feet and 40° North, West Yellowstone is in prime location for heavy winter snows. The town itself receives on average upwards of 11 feet of snow each winter season – some of those dumpings of fresh powder can surprise the 1,020 year-round residents as late as June. Go higher into the mountains and you could be swimming in even more powder.
If pure speed is your fix, these mountains can surely satisfy it. Backcountry and teleskiing in knee-deep powder on a crisp, though comfortable morning, with nothing but blue sky overhead is like swapping your Folgers for the coffee only a French press can produce. Lionshead Mountain, a ten-minute drive west of town, and the surrounding terrain is full of glades, meadows, and killer drops. Keep your eyes open for roaming elk and moose.
If you’re more the resort type, drive north 45 miles from town and you hit Big Sky, which just happens to have the largest vertical drop in the U.S. and boasts a whopping 33 feet of annual snowfall – 33 feet! With 3500 acres of skiable terrain and 18 lifts, don’t forget to drive back to West Yellowstone for the other unbeatable activities.
Even in the middle of the springtime, perhaps mid April in average years, the 40 kilometers of specially designed trails at the Rendezvous Trail System in town continue to be groomed by Doug Edgerton and his Piston Bully or drag sled. Perfectly manicured corduroy for skating and crisp classic tracks enjoyed with extra blue can be yours when the rest of your buddies are cursing spring because it’s mud season back home.
The best thing about springtime around West Yellowstone is the crust. Oh, the crust, one of nature’s physical delights! Those 11 feet of snow compact over the course of the winter so that by springtime it is reduced to about 5 feet. As the temperature climbs above freezing, the surface of the snowpack melts. At night, when the clear sky peppered with trillions of bright stars vents the heat and moisture from the day, the temperature drops well below freezing and the surface hardens. Wake up in the morning, throw on a pair of skate boots, jump into some skate skis, and frolic across meadows, through towering stands of lodge pole and jack pine to your heart’s content. You’re limited only by your endurance. Just remember to wake up early for the harder conditions.
Stop in at the Free Heel & Wheel, the local ski and bike shop, for the best places for crust cruising when you visit. One of the local secrets is Fawn Pass, twenty miles north of town. A huge drainage area, varying from steep climbs and descents to easy and fast cruising in open meadows, awaits just beside the highway. Don’t forget to bring bear spray with you as this can be prime location for grizzlies.
Once the park road opens, the number of places to cruise becomes infinite. Try Winter Creek, located a scenic and curvy 40 miles from the West Entrance, between Norris and Mammoth. The area was hit by fire and the remaining stands of charred pine loom eerily overhead as you use them as markers for your slalom descent.
West Yellowstone wouldn’t even exist if it weren’t for the national park from which it derives its name. Yellowstone is full of its own secrets, from the geysers and paint pots to herds of buffalo and elk.
A unique way to enjoy the park is to visit when the road is plowed, but not yet open to vehicles. The dates change from year to year, but in 2006, the road was plowed April 1, while the public was not allowed in by motorized vehicle until April 20. Bring your road bike and enjoy a breathtaking experience. The pavement is good and the terrain variable.
From the West Entrance to Madison Junction, a distance of 14 miles, the road is flat as it follows the Madison River. You are guaranteed to spot grazing elk and buffalo in the meadows beside the road, if not on the road itself. Veer to the left towards Norris and Mammoth at the Junction. The road has some challenging and sustained climbs as it follows the Firehole River and its many falls and geysers. From Madison Junction, it is 14 miles to Norris, and a further 21 miles to Mammoth. The road from Madison to Old Faithful usually remains closed for ecological reasons until the road opens to vehicles.
When cycling, remember to bring everything you might need in case of an emergency or maintenance problem. Though park staff are on the roads moving supplies in for the new season, you can’t count that they will drive by. Weather can change quickly. Temperatures can fall below freezing and snow can fall during any month of the year. Check the forecast before you venture out and let Kelly and Melissa in the Free Heel & Wheel know of your plans. They’ll be able to give you some tips that will make your ride a more pleasant experience.
Once the park road opens, traffic usually subsides after the opening weekend until the masses arrive around Memorial Day. Use the opportunity to ride to Old Faithful, Yellowstone Lake, or wherever you wish with the least amount of vehicle traffic clogging your lungs with exhaust and interrupting the hypnotic whir of your chain and tires. If the traffic is bad, go “around the block” – a relatively flat loop that has you circle Hebgen and Quake Lakes on Highways 20, 87, and 191. Buffalo sightings are nearly guaranteed just north of town.
If skiing and cycling are not enough to quench your endurance thirst, then try some paddling on for size. The Madison River runs just along the road between Madison Junction and West Yellowstone. There are some small rapids, but for the most part, it is easy-going water.
And hiking? Once the park opens to vehicles, drive towards Old Faithful. The meadows on either side of the road are wide open. At Old Faithful, of course you’ll find the world’s most concentrated site of geothermal features like geysers, hot springs, and paint pots. In fact, 75 percent of the world’s geothermal features are located within the park. Drive north from Madison Junction to Norris and Mammoth and you’ll find additional geothermal sights along the way.
The easy thing to do after you’re too tired to do any more is just sit back in a chair and soak up the sun’s warm rays. West Yellowstone is an easy-going town and all of its residents look forward to spring. No one will bother you as you soak up some rays.
When you’re rested, but still sore and achy from all of the skiing, cycling, paddling, and hiking you can handle for one day, roam around town. Check out the grizzly bears and wolves kept at the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center at the east end of town. Watch the bears as they play in their large pen and search for their food hidden inside trees, under stones, and in the pond. Just as you bathe in the sun, so too does the center’s wolf pack. The only time you’ll find them active is at feeding time, which is changed every day to keep them from settling into a routine. Otherwise, they’re content lying in the sun.
Next to the Discovery Center is the Yellowstone IMAX Theatre. Opening days and hours change with the seasons, but stop in to see Yellowstone or Lewis & Clark. The first provides a thrilling visual tour of the park along with information about its history, wild inhabitants, and geothermal features. The second follows our nation’s famous explorers across the west to the Pacific Ocean.
To recharge your glycogen stores for another day of adventure, try the soups and sandwiches at the Picnic Basket for lunch. Wild West Pizzeria is a local favorite, featuring quality ingredients – read: this is not Pizza Hut. The Outpost has a filling, but inexpensive baked chicken meal with a good salad bar. Go for the wild huckleberry sundae for dessert. You’ve certainly earned it. The Outpost is also the best breakfast place in town, with large helpings of oatmeal, pancakes, or waffles.
West Yellowstone has many places to rest your body. The Bar N Ranch is the rustic luxury option, with cabins or lodge rooms all featuring wood fireplaces and either a jetted bathtub or private outdoor hot tub. Inside the 9000 square foot lodge, the great room is an idyllic place to relax with a good novel, pausing to look out at the expansive views of the surrounding mountain ranges. A full country-style breakfast is included, served by Ron, the humorous, but knowledgeable ranch hand. He’ll serve you as early as four or as late as nine. The 200 acre ranch is a 10 minute drive west of town, though its open fields are perfect for a short bout of crust cruising.
For more standard lodging, stay at the Holiday Inn in town. Rooms are hotel standard and there is a restaurant located on the property. The Rendezvous Trail System is just across the road. Sooth your aching muscles in the hotel’s pool or hot tub. Featuring rooms similar to the Holiday Inn, though often at half the price, the Brandin’ Iron Inn is a better budget choice. The Brandin’ Iron includes a small breakfast and features a hot tub room to boot. It’s located on the east side of town, two blocks from the West Entrance to Yellowstone.
For more information West Yellowstone Chamber of Commerce (www.westyellowstonechamber.com) Rendezvous Ski Trails (www.rendezvousskitrails.com) Free Heel and Wheel (www.freeheelandwheel.com) Yellowstone National Park (www.nps.gov/yell) Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center (www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.com) IMAX Theatre (www.yellowstoneimax.com) Picnic Basket (406) 646-1001 Wild West Pizzeria (406) 646-4400 Outpost (406) 646-7303 Bar N Ranch (http://www.bar-n-ranch.com) Holiday Inn (406) 646-7365 Brandin’ Iron Inn (http://www.yellowstonevacations.com)
How to get there Bozeman, Montana is a 90 mile, or 1 hour 40 minute, drive from West Yellowstone. There are also shuttles available from the airport to any hotel in town (Karst Stage: www.karststage.com) Salt Lake City, Utah is a 320 mile, or 5 hour, drive from West Yellowstone, but usually features cheaper flights and car rentals.
